Also, i want to make sure i have the wiring correct for it. There are 4 wires on the brake controler, +, -, Stop light, and trailer brakes. I THINK how it should be set up is + and - Directly to the battery, stop light tapped into the factory brake harness, and the trailer brake wire run back to the connector at the rear of the truck. Than to the 7 pin connector use the harness with brake light, left signal, right signal, and back up light, and ground, then add the trailer brake wire from the controler, and a 40A constant hot, Correct? Thanks again Garrett. BRAKE mate Instruction Sheet Contents: Prewired Connector (1). Mount the bracket for the round connector on the bumper if that’s where it is to be installed. Apr 19, 2018 - Brake Control Accessories BRAKE MATE ™ KIT Includes all necessary parts required to completely install all brake controls. No other parts are. Mortal kombat x download free. That controller is more than enough to work for now. If you ever move up to a bigger trailer, or a fancier trailer, or want better braking, it will be easy to swap out. ![]() This is probably more than you want to know, but it will answer alot of questions before you have to ask them. Except for the power hook up, this will work on any truck. Finding the brake wire will also vary by vehicle. Go down to your local auto parts place and pick up a couple of self reseting circuit breakers. Get one 20 amp and one 30 amp. Pick up 25 or 30 feet of blue 12 guage wire, 30 or 35 feet of black 10 gauge wire, a 10 feet of white 12 guage wire. That should be more than enough wire, but it's better to have too much than not enough. You need a couple of electrical ring terminals too. You need five #10 ring connectors for 10-12 guage wire (the yellow ones). There should be a electrical center on the drivers side fender with a 12v stud that powers the buss bar feeding it. Get a ring connector (a yellow one) big enough to fit over that stud. I think it's a 5/16' stud IIRC, but get a few of different sizes. You also need a couple of blue butt connectors and a couple yellow butt connectors. While you are at the part store, get a trailer wire T-connector for the truck. That way you don't have to splice into the vehicles wiring. Find someplace under the hood to mount the circuit breakers. You want them to be as close to power (that electrical center) as you can get. IIRC, under the hood of those trucks kind be really crowded, so good luck, you may need to be creative. Use a couple of self drilling screws to attach them to something. On the circuit breakers, there should be two different color posts. One silver, and one brass. If they are the same color, they should be marked 'Batt' (the brass post) and 'Aux'(the silver post). 'Batt' is the power side, and 'Aux' runs to the controller or the plug. Strip the ends off of a chunk of black wire long enough to go between the brass posts on the breakers. Attach a #10 ring terminal to each end and put them on those posts. ![]() Run the black and blue wires up from the back of the truck. Don't worry about making them permenant yet, but run them how they are going to be strung, i.e.: over, around, and through crossmembers and brackets. Pull those wires all the way up under the hood. Pull the black wire up to the 30 amp breaker and attach it with a ring terminal. Pull the blue wire up and feed it through the firewall. I usually can find a grommet already in the firewall that I can fish the wire through. Leave enough slack up under the hood that you can pull more wire through if you need it. Mount the controller under the dash. I usually mount them down low and to the right.
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